It was another game of pinning the donkeys tail again in trying to reach the Sa'd Abab Museum complex a good 20Ks away in the north of the city. My guesses were inspired in the main though this time and in the gradual climb northwards I crossed the snowline and found a leafier, more affluent neighbourhood thick with the stuff. Perhaps that explained why I found the place closed, and already too late to make it back in time for the National Jewels Museum instead, the day was a dead loss before it had started. I consoled myself in a trendy coffee shop, not something you came across every day around here. Its as well to note that I had lost count over the last day or 2 of the number of times people had approached me, presumably to ask directions. It seemed the locals had as much trouble getting around sometimes as myself, to which I could only reply "Bibakhsheed, na mifahman" (Sorry, I dont understand). Either that or they were wondering how come I had a distinctive red beard, but I must have a friendly face all the same. Yup, the fuzz had returned through lack of shaving facilities again and I had decided to keep it this time, it would ward off the cold and hopefully the fanatics in Pakistan too. It took me more hours still to at long last track down a net cafe, the only one in the guidebook was conspicuous by its absence but I found another one nearby after another marathon trail. Over 12 hours on the street and all I had achieved was 2 and a half hours on the net and coffee. Tehran was tough.