Havıng just learned of it I decided I would have to make a beeline for the Balkan Wars Museum, a subject I found interesting but knew basically nothing about. After eventually tracing it through unassuring backstreets I found it on the summit of the highest hill around, where it had actually been incorporated into what had been a makeshift fort of sorts used during the conflict. It turned out to be a very good museum with a lot of audio commentary, just a pity most of the information was in Turkish only. Basically in the twilight years of the Ottoman Empire its weakness was exploited by invaders and Edirne fell to the Bulgars in 1912. There was widespread famine and atrocities on both sides until under the command of hero General Şukru Paşa, Edirne was finally recaptured in July 1913. The site now also acts as a memorial and tomb for the boy, just one more excuse for lots of Turkish flags and sentries with guns.
I then walked south in search of 2 very nice 15th century bridges and the Lausanne Museum beyond them but ran out of time for the museum unfortunately. It obviously detailed the 1923 Treaty of Lausanne which essentially after much struggle saved Turkey from further border incursions and a colonial carve up, and paved the way for the creation of Turkey as a nation later that year. Very important. It was here that I saw a sign pointing to Yunanistan (Greece), only 3Ks away. I was almost tempted. Back into town and I used the last of the day to take a look at the Eski Cami (Old Mosque), thankfully almost empty. It had very similar restrained decor to the more famous Sulimiye Cami I had seen earlier but the architecture was less refined, the arches and pillars less subtle. Still, it was over 500 years old. Sleep caught up wıth me so I decided to stay another night in Edirne, there was a lot to see anyhow.