I left it to the last minute to take photos of the Golden Temple, after which we rode a local train the 3 hours to Pathankot where the intention was to connect with the narrow gauge railway to Kangra, en route to Darramsala and nearby McLeodganj. As it turned out, waiting for the connection half way we met Kaira from Florida who was headed that way by taxi. We surrendered the novelty of the dinky train trip for the speed and convenience of a car. After crossing a bridge over a major river which marked the border between the Punjab and Himachal Pradesh (Himalayan Provinces), the road immediately started to climb as the name might suggest and we were soon on a familiarly narrow tortuous single track with blind bends and steep cliffs, switchbacking all the way until past dark. McLeodganj was an old British hill station which had now been transmorphed in the main to a refuge for uncountried Tibetans, a very stark change from the ethnic Hindustanis I had only just adapted to. With a covering of the head being required for the Golden Temple, I decided to retain my bandana, it was de rigeur with the hippyesque alternative scene which had evolved here. For much cheapness we bagged a fantastically poised hotel room, paying little over a quid each sharing with Mannfred. The door opened onto a verandah overlooking the valley all the way down to the plain miles below, it was still a great view in spite of the dodgy weather.